It had
been coming, and when it came, it was memorable at least. Was it fitting? I think so.
Friday the
13th of April 2018. I took a
path on the edge of town that I was not sure if I should take, overlooked by
the new apartments above the green mosque.
It curled round to what seemed a dead end: a dumping ground for garden
detritus behind the hotel. Looking up
the gully, I thought I could see a way through among the piles of limestone
rubble and the pines tufted with the webs of processionary moth
caterpillars. Climbing up through the quiet
woods, I glanced at my phone. A message with
his name as the heading had just arrived.
I decided not to open it yet.
A line of
stones marked a hunters’ path up through the woods. Working around uneven ground and fallen
trees, I gained some height towards the ridge.
The blue patches of bay visible through the trees grew as I
climbed. The path roved through swelling
patches of warm sunlight, before emerging in a clearing by a small cave full of
sticks, a discarded grey man’s jacket, the evidence of fire. Stone steps of unknown vintage rose above me,
cut into a cliff of grainy orange limestone.
At the foot of these I read the message that informed me of what I
already knew: that the captain of my cricket team had died of cancer after a
shockingly rapid decline.
I climbed
to the next outcrop and took off my shoes, sitting down among the sprigs of
wild barley, the delicate star-like purple flowers whose name I still don’t
know, the scrapings of last night’s foraging boar. A single Turkish pine jinked skywards out of a
fissure in the limestone. I wondered how
best to mark this moment in my own way, how to honour this irascible, combative
little man. I didn’t know him well, but latterly
had come to like him rather more through shared sporting endeavours. I became self-conscious, as though watched.
On the
edge of the town below, a click from the loudspeakers on the minaret of the
Karagözler mosque announced the commencement of the evening call to
prayer. I rose to my feet to listen and
take in the sunlit view of the snowy peaks of the Bonçuk Daglari mountains to
the north.
Allahu
Akbar
God is Great…
God is Great…
The muezzin waited
for the echo of each preceding utterance to arrive from the far side of the bay
before resuming. In those pauses was an
exquisite peace.
Ashhadu
an la ilaha illa Allah
I bear witness that there is no god except the One God…
I bear witness that there is no god except the One God…
After the
last line of the azan and its rolling return came a humdrum and rather touching
click as the amplification was switched off.
Before the
azan was amplified, the splendour of that distant echo would have been
unknown. A nearer one, yes, running
through the alleys of the town and mingling with the cries of children and the
barking of dogs, but not those rolling waves of praise coming down as if sent
from the mountains themselves. What a
moment, the first electric muezzin! Was
he proud? Did he understand the
significance?
Now,
shoeless on a Turkish crag, with a tingling, perilous feeling in my belly from
my proximity to the edge, I remembered the visiting Bangladeshi cricketers, unrolling
their prayer mats and kneeling towards Mecca on the outfield of a Dartmoor
cricket pitch. A more delightfully
incongruous sight one could not hope to see.
Simon, who died this morning aged 51, would have stood watching, smirking
and smoking a roll-up, waiting impatiently for the game to begin. And now…
What would
he have made of this? Me learning of his
death in a south Devon hospice, the same one that provided care for me, while a
muezzin issues the call to prayer over the bay.
Torquay to Türkiye. Wanting to do
something, I reached down for a knuckle-sized piece of limestone that had
broken off from the outcrop. I did the only
thing I could think of before putting on my shoes and pushing on up the
hillside, which was to hurl the stone off the precipice using a cricketer’s
bowling action. I gave it my
characteristic tweak of off-spin just for authenticity, and watched it drop
into the dark pines below. I imagined my
captain’s cry of derision or praise, as so many times before - but now never
again.
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